Welcome to my Casa Mixteca

Hey everyone...I moved to a new house and we finally have a decent internet connection in the house! Actually, it works great. I gotta get ready to go decir despedidas (say good-bye) to Lindsey, the physical anthropologist who worked this year for the same project as I did last year, but just wanted to give a quick update and let everyone know that I am doing very well.

We started excavations at the Casa Mixteca, a Mixtec house site that is near the "collective" site of Monte Alban (a 20 minute camioneta ride away) and is of course Post-classic and awesome. Right now there's just me, the person technically in charge of the project, a student from ENAH and a worker. We are working in the north room of patio 3, one of the larger rooms, and we hope to finish up tomorrow with that and move onto the next room. Its taking a bit longer, not only cause of the lack of personnel (or human labor) but because its a big room with a lot of erosional fill. Its a lot fun though, and I will post pictures shortly.

In the mean time, here is a great pic of me relaxing during the lunch hour.

Coxitlahuaca...not quite Shangri-la, but close enough for this archaeologist!

What does one see everywhere when they go to Coixtlahuaca, aside from a carpet, literally of tecomates (ceramic sherds)covering the ground everywhere you walked?

Incredible vistas! This valley was amazing and breath-taking. Imagine a place that is very mountainous but the vistas stretch for miles, and the next mountain range you see could be kilometers away. The valley literally spreads out below you.

Here's Dr. Steve Kowalewski and Leonardo discussing something important or another about how we were going to proceed with the excavations that day. It was some crazy work we were doing--I've never excavated and backfilled in one day, and we did this three days in a row! Here we at the top of a large hill--look how beautiful everything looks from this high up.

Coixtlahuaca is for the most part a Postclassic site, and this era is especially famous for its polychrome pottery. I was dying to find one all week--unfortunately I kept picking up a bunch of bi-chromes with varying shades of red. Finally, on my last day up there, I found a fragment or tecomate of a polychrome pottery vessel. Sweet!

Here I am in the unit on Friday. Okay, so this picture is a bit posed--we had already done all the work, and photographed and did the plan drawing. But I couldn't resist getting a shot of myself as a working archaeologist!

Here is Rodrigo and Jorge, the team from UNAM (the big university in Mexico City) that was doing some of the electromagnetic testing of the site. It was there data that we were using to pick where we were going to excavate, to see how good the results of the electromagnetic testing is. We got mixed results--where we dug on Thursday and Friday the data worked very well.

And finally, a picture of the crew, from Monday. From L-R, its me (of course!), Leonardo, our two young helpers Xochitl and Blanca, and Dr. Steve Kowalewski. Marisol, the other archaeologist on the team, took the picture.

Though I was only up there for a week, I had a great time and met some wonderful people. Working with Steve was great--and he's invited me to come work with him next year from Jan-June--so want too! Just gotta figure out how to skip out on my classes :P. Plus, I had to lead my own units--I was put in charge! And that was exciting enough. Now I can say that I lead a crew, albeit briefly.

Can't wait to go back!

Politics, a dance of swords, and bits of life.

Its official. I am working with the team at Monte Alban, doing some work on the Casa Mixteca. Originally excavated as a rescue project in 1999, we're now going back to it to see what was missing from the drawing plans, topographic information, and other misc. things of the site report produced then and fill in the gaps. Having reviewed through all the informes from 1998 to last year yesterday, I know that in 2008 they set the goal to take a new look at the site with the idea of doing some preservation work, since it seems to be in an area of high erosion and danger from the ever expanding mancha urbana (basically, urban stain).

So again, not exactly what I was hoping to do this summer, but the main thing to remember is that my own project comes first, and all this stuff was for experience and so I could get my FM-3. I'm not sure what exactly I did wrong--Ron (Dr. Spores) says its a jugdemental thing and not a logical thing and I should put it behind me, but I still can't help wonder if it was something I did in the past year, or in the three days between my meeting with the Dra. and when I first heard the rumor that I would be pulled to Monte Alban.

However it happened, it sounds like things aren't incredibly exciting nor peachy up in Tepos. Next year should be better...and hey, unlike some people I know (who shall remain nameless) I've haven't been blacklisted from Oaxacan archaeology! In fact, I have been invited to work in the very bosom of the political firestorm! Perhaps its a keep your enemies close thing, but everyone who works here tells me that this is a good thing, and a way to prove that I am a good, loyal worker...unlike some people I know. Cheers!

Been a while, head in strange space...

Sorry for the long silence on posting. Most of the blame can be laid at the feet of simple exhaustion at the end of a long day of fieldwork and an impossibly slow internet connection during my week at Coixtlahuaca--which occupied my time from May 31-June 5. Digging there was fun, and I promise to post pictures soon of a wonderful and awe-inspiring landscapes and vistas, plus some great archaeology.

View of the valley from one of the sites we worked at.

The week in Coixtlahuaca was followed by my birthday, which was a mixture of sadness and happiness, but thankfully landed more on the latter side of the divide. I had a lovely dinner with Dr. Ron Spores and his brother and sister-in-law, then went out with friends where we danced till 2:30 in the morning! My hair was wet when I took it down before going to bed!



Sunday--the actual B-day--was rather quiet, though a friend of mine that I had met in Coixtlahuaca did come down to Oaxaca and we went out to a bar or two. At the second the bartender invited us to a free mezcal and beer, which was nice. He tried to send another one, but we said thanks but no thanks. Er. Then we went home, watched a movie and passed out. My friend left the next day to Mexico City.

And I left to go to Nochixtlan to help out a friend for the week. Unfortunately, while at the top of the Cero Jazmin, I received a phone call from Bertha, indicating that I had received an email from Dra. Nelly Robles, and that it would be best for me to come back to Oaxaca asap and get stuff straightened out and started up with her.

Well, its the second day. I'm awaiting "instructions" so I can know what the hell I'm doing. Sigh. And my mentor, Ron, is happy about it. I don't think he's going to charge in like a white knight, and I don't know if its going to do much as it seems I am being unfairly selected to be jerked around (which is right now too depressing to relate but I promise a post on this later), but its nice to know he cares. We'll see what happens.

Since I seem to be stuck at an impasse, I have decided to concentrate on what actually matters at the moment, which is my ball court project. On Sunday a friend and I are going up to meet with a Señor who seems to be heavily involved in arranging pelota mixteca or ball game matches, and there's supposed to be a tournament in this one village, which I am looking forward to. I also need to start hitting up some ball courts, though since I did limit myself to at least three, I don't think I should have too much trouble accomplishing that task.

Till next time, I promise that a post will follow this one very shortly.

The teachers did what?

So May is protest month here in Oaxaca, with the teachers leading the charge and cries of "Vive APPO" ringing around--and spray painted on various buildings. Of course, to understand some of what's going on, one has to go back to the Troubles of 2006, but that's a long and complicated topic which I would rather not get into here. Suffice to say, as Teri did "Is change needed in Oaxaca? Yes. Will it come with the teachers union in charge? No." You can't expect change when those leading the call are practically mafiosos themselves.

Today Bertha and I made the big visit to the immigration office, since all my papers were in order (ay por fin). Everything was reviewed and approved and ready to go. The only problem? The teachers have taken over the banks all over the state. You see, the last thing I need is to take this form (Mexicans love forms) to the bank, make my payment, get it stamped, make copies, and then take these copies plus the original, back to the immigration office. Which would have been possible to day had the teachers not decided that TODAY, of all days (not even Friday, but that's when people get paid!) is the day they are going take over the banks. Damn. But we asked one of the professors when the takeover would be over, and they indicated that it would be over tomorrow. So I'll just take care of that tomorrow.

Sigh. But soon this visa process will be over, and I will be able to join the excavations! I also travel to Mitla today, so hopefully on the way through Tlacolula, I can find the one bank that's open (maybe) and get this stamped so I can just go to the office tomorrow and get my papers!

Anyway, the photos that follow are some of the graffiti that APPO and anarchists have been throwing up on the walls around the Centro Historico.

Sundry things

Hey, only 3 days later. Not bad--slowly getting better at this, back into the swing of things. Well, Thursday was an interesting day. I met up with Bertha in front of the immigration office and we spoke with a woman, clearing up some of the confusion I had had about what the necessary documents are for changing my status from Tourist to FM-3 Student (basically means that I can be in Mexico as long as I please, can come and go as I please, and I just need to renew every year before it expires...sweet!). The woman indicated that I just had to get what was on the list, with the exception of a letter from a school here in Mexico saying that I've been accepted, since...well, since I'm not a student here in a school but as a student archaeologist learning on a field project.

So no more apostille! Thank god, though I still plan on getting one next year any way just to be safe.

After parting ways with Bertha, I took a colectivo to Mitla to see Richard. First stop was at a Modelo store, cause you can't go to Richard's empty-handed. Then, since I had not had lunch, it was a trip over to the Mercado and a bee-line to my favorite torta stand, where I chatted with the Señora behind the counter. Lo and behold to my delight she did in fact remember me, and we chatted pleasantly about how said it was that los gringos don't like el sabor picante, qué lastíma. As I walked out of the marketplace I had a pleasant run-in with Elena, nuestra concinadora from last year. We greeted each other with loud exclamations and platicamos mucho, and she even gave me two free bottles of Yakult, the sweetheart. I promised to make a visit with I came back to Mitla.

Finally, I went over to Richard's, where we shared some beers and he gave me advice on my ball court project. Then, when he indicated that he needed to back to bed (Richard is very sick), he lent me his hat and coat and this guerita trudged it back to Oaxaca, taking the bus which thankfully stopped in Tlacolula so I could pee and, an added bonus, buy some tamales. Sweet.

Friday I spent most of the day in Teposcolula with Bertha and Willy. I got a chance to see the exposición about the site nearby, Pueblo el Viejo or Yuncundaa in Mixtec, and I also spent some lovely time in the rose garden of the ex-convento, listening to the birds and the wind. Funny enough, while I was watching a video produced for the exposición, there was a temblor or small earthquake which shook the walls of the building. For a moment there I stood up in indecision, not sure if I should run outside or stay put. Thankfully it only lasted for about ten seconds--later on I found out that the epicenter had been in Puebla, the state to the northwest of us.

Olga, the coordinator for the site, found me at one point and we walked over to where Bertha was so we could do a tour of the site. Olga mentioned my wanting to work at the site, to which I very carefully responded that I did and what I could do for them. She indicated that to her it didn't matter much and that there was a lot of work to do, and for me to give her my email so that she could talk to Dra. Nelly and confirm to me a yes or a no. Cognizant of wanting to make a good impression, I was very polite and answered her questions, asking my own in turn.

Anyway, the site visit was nice. Afterwards we stopped for dinner at the Palapa, which was only okay. Waited around for a bit while Bertha talked to some people at the municipio, then it was back to Oaxaca. Wily and Bertha dropped me off at El Centro where I met up with Ricardo, Véronica, and her sister whose name I can't recall at the moment. A few (and I literally mean only two person) beers later, we called it a night and I cabbed it back to Cinco Señores, the colonial where I kinda live but don't (our address is technically in Fernando Sandoval Gómez).

As for today? Worked more on translation stuff for my FM-3 and learned to play bridge, which I still don't quite understand and which I figure will take a few more games (or a dozen) before I can even begin to sorta grasp the rules. I think there are also plans to go out tonight, but we'll see.

Looks like I will be doing some archaeology (god willing) fairly soon. Till later!

P.S.

First year of graduate school completed, how did I do? Fairly well--second semester I maintained my 4.00 GPA, got a few scholarships and grants, and seem to be well on my way to getting through the program at a good pace. Looking forward to the next year.

Cheers

Solicito a INM...quiero quedarme aqui!

Sorry for the long silence since the last post. Not too much exciting stuff going on, though I've been recently occupied with changing my immigration status from "turista" to non-immigrant student, basically an FM-3 that's a little easier to obtain than other immigration documents. Getting this thing is going to require jumping through a few hoops--a lot of redundant copying, tiny little passport photos, carta personal to say that yes, I do want to work and live and stay here in Mexico. Also puts me out about $300, but its well worth it. Not only do I have the coverage when I'm doing research or working on a field project, but I no longer have to deal with 6 month tourist visas that sometimes overlap, and it only takes $50 to get the sucker renewed each year.

Thankfully in this process I have Berta,la mujer extraordinaire, to help me out. She's going to help me with getting the formal letter from the Foundation's Yucundaa project and the letter proving that I have a place of residence here. So, the only big hoop to jump through is getting an apostille (Thanks Hague convention) for my master's degree to prove its legit. This is proving to be slightly difficult although not daunting--thankfully I have some people who are willing to take care of it, just not at the time I need them to do so. So I'm hunting my brother down, trying to get in touch with him to ask him the biggest favor in the world.

Travis, if you are out there....call me yah?

Vienes armada!

Hola amigos. Second full day in Oaxaca. Wednesday just went into the blackhole of travel--basically I had been up since 4:40 in the morning, took a flight out of Tucson at 6:40 to Houston, where at 2:20 I left for Mexico City. Then, once I got there I immediately cabbed it to TAPO and purchased a bus ticket to Oaxaca. The bus left at 6pm and we got into the city around 12:30. Allan, my host, met me at the station and then we took a cab to there place where I promptly passed out. Ugh, 18 hours of travel not so much fun.

But what is fun is the tiangues in Ocotlan. Its been my mission for some time to pick up a two-colored reboso (shawl) and a machete with a bull-horn handle. After taking a second-class bus to Ocotlan, I set about shopping. Paid full price for the reboso, which I didn't mind because they're very nice and a lot of work. But for the machete and its holder I did bargain a bit. Got the machete "puro machete" for $200 pesos, the best deal I found there. It's about 55cm long, made of good steel that rings when you flick it, and the bull-horn handle is very nice. Also picked up a leather sheath for it, which cost me $70.

Then it was on another bus to the town of Sto. Tomas Jalieza, where my mission was to find a new purse to replace the one I had liberated from my mom a few years back. Found a nice black one with both a zipper and a flap for extra security. This put me out $140 pesos but again, well worth it considering the quality of the weaving and how much it would be comparatively in the States. After that I made my way back to the highway, where I waited for another ride back to Oaxaca City with some lovely ladies, one of whom made a joke that I "vienes armada" or I come armed (because of the machete, natch), at least that's what I caught. Pretty funny though.

Now I'm back at home, playing with my Mexican cellphone and texting friends here in Oaxaca. Tomorrow its beers at La Farola with Ricardo. Cheers!